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New Route Information
Click Above for overview maps and area descriptions
New Routes, work or Projects
Fall, 2003
- I'm Actually writing in here
- we have many new routes
- Main Wall has 2 new routes, "Reunion"
5.11b an old route to the right of the big obvious flake ( 5 bolts).
"Under the Umbrella" 5.10+ climbs dihedrals to right of
Aroofnophobia (4 bolts).
- Waterfall has 3 new routes, a great 5.9
corner near the falls, "three amigos" 5.10b face to flake(13meters)3 bolts at
start, "Bat Crack" 5.11a 5 bolts 13 meters.
- The hard route just 4 meters to the
right of Pinche Moscos was top roped at 5.12b/c
December 9, 2002
- ITS RAINING. Probably no more climbing till spring. Aid climbers can keep banging away.
- A new aid routes being cleaned on the wall just left of Cell Block. Its being bolted on lead with 3/8, so it can go free one day.
- the big log on the top of main wall was chopped down, the trail from main wall to Grand Central was cleared. This will attached to the Devils Ladder trail.
September 15, 2002
Rap hangers were put on the very top of Purple Nurple. These can be used instead of the arbutus tree.
A new route is clean up at Kamikaze Wall, also another route is in the process.
Caveman 5.11+ Was FA by john at the main wall, its 4 bolts to the right of Aroofnophobia.
The area around the main wall is getting tidied up (trail, log benches, etc….)
Arbutus Alley was grass seeded again.
Chris e-mailed me this info, its rough but you'll understand.
There are 3 new problems south behind) crack my boulder. The lines are on the clean short
arête on the right side of the boulder.
- v0/v1 unnamed (easy if your tall reachy if your not) it starts on the slightly overhanging face.
- V2 unnamed Sit start on the bottom of the arête and go up and right on to the slab at the top. fa by Jeremy
Childs.
- V3 busted butt
sit start like the above line but just go up the arête, fa Jeremy
Childs.
Also 3 new routes on blow down rock.
- rocket to Russia
v4 start on the far left side and traverse right. fa Jeremy
Childs.
- the sneaky gee
. V1 same start as rocket to Russia but just go strait up. fa Chris bozman .
3) freaky gee's log ride V2. Just around the corner of Rocket to Russia on the face facing the camp ground there is a high ball
arête problem. The crux is all mental. falling is a no no!! bring lots of pads and a few good spotters. fa Jeremy
Childs.
Duncan Lewis has put up a hard project on huck rock, start low in the roof and think body tension, he got most of it but due to rain we had to leave. he thinks it going be in the v8/9 range. it is called return of the Jedi.
one last note I recleaned crotch at the main wall.
August 8
Two big routes were recleaned at Devil's Ladder. Lost Work 5.10d and Friday the 13th, 5.11.
M. Boyd took rappel chains off an anchor at the end of Arbutus Alley.
One of the best climbs at Comox lake was completed at Kamikaze Wall( upper grand central). It’s the only bolted line on the wall, climbing up to the small fir tree and over the roof. Named Space Station 5.11+. A sporty well bolted line. Unique climbing for the lake.
A few more lines are being cleaned by J. Waters at Kamikaze wall.
Some routes are being cleaned at the main wall.
Pocket Pussy 5.11a, a thin crack was first accented last week.
June 1
- At grand Central the route that goes under and to the right of the roof was finally completed. 5.10a Crazy Canuck.
- Also the route just to the right of Purple Nurple was climbed at 5.10c No Worms. Easier than it looks.
- 2 new routes were climbed at Devils Ladder. The life a death of foo man chew 5.10b (to the right of Lost Work off the end of Arbutus alley and Lost Work Direct ( straight above lost work) 5.10a. Top anchors were placed.
- The route directly below The One that Got Away is named Firewheel(not free climbed
yet) probably 5.11+. Will be climbed soon.
- M. Waters soloed Humping Newt 5.9.
- April 26
The log at the top of the Main wall is precariously perched and will be removed .
Trail to Kamikaze Wall is on going.
2 new routes are being cleaned on Kamikaze
wall john).
The big slab to the right of Dragon face was checked out and some routes may be put up. (mike & Nathan)
Much action around "Grand Central". 3 new routes are being cleaned. 1 to the left of "Purple Nurple" and 2 to the right. Probably graded, 10c, 11b, and 5.9 respectively. The .11b goes straight over the roof.
Many tree branches were removed from the cedars around "Purple Nurple". More light and the routes will dry faster after it rains.
April 10
- Major work is being done on the trail up to Upper Grand Central. This is now called Kamikaze Wall. Steps on the steep part of the trail are being built.
- The route to the right of The one that Got Away (Devils
Ladder) is now cleaned and was top roped. Bolts will be placed soon. The new route is "The life and Death of Foo-Man-Chew", 5.10-.
- Another set of bolts were placed above "Aroofnophobia" at the main wall.
A new line in the dihedrals to the right of "Aroofnophobia" is also being cleaned
April 7, 2002
- A 5.7 dihedral to roof and crack was completed in October, 2001. The route starts 10
meters to the right of UI Benefits. It has one bolt at the bottom and then takes gear the whole way. The routes is Purple Nurple
- Belay bolts were placed at the start of The One that Got Away on Devils Ladder. The Route directly below is also being cleaned. It's reported as hard.
- Chains were put on the top anchors of Pinche Moscos.
- A new route has been cleaned at Upper Grand Central (5.11)
- Finally the route between Delusions of Grandeur and Loosifer has been climbed. Its called Almost Legal 5.11+.
September 24, 2001
- RCAFU (5.9) face was first ascended by Aaron and Greg. It is to the left of Seventy Four Dollar Whore.
- A direct finish for Lost Work is clean and ready for bolting.
- Also another face climb to the left of Lost Work is being cleaned.
- At Grand Central a 5.9 crack and roof is being cleaned, its 10
meters right of UI Benefits.
- Bolts a being placed on Bad dad (5.12?)
August 19, 2001
- The new Comox Lake Crags guide book is out, and can be purchased at Valhalla or mountain meadows.
- A new route is being worked at Grand Central, above the water ski club. Probably 5.12, to the left of EI Benefits.
- Work is on going at the space area of Devils Ladder; RACFU is a new route that will go any day. Top anchors are also being placed for many of the routes.
- The hand line above Arbutus Alley was also set up again, it was stolen last year.
- new bolts where put in at the top of Humping Newt
- All the routes below Arbutus Alley have been cleaned again.
november, 2000
- mike waters & john put up the hardest trad route at the lake. "Eagle" 5.11, at the left side of upper grand central.
- Mike boyd also free climbed the 2nd pitch of devils advocate and did the first accent of Dragons Face. His route "enter the dragon" climbs up to and along the huge left sweeping roof. At the highest point, climb the thin seam and mantle out.
- "pop go my weasel" is a hard sport route 5.12 that starts above the arbutus tree at arbutus alley.
July 5, 2000
- mike waters & mike boyd completed possibly the hardest route at comox lake. It climbs the series of short roofs to the right of "centipede". Its an all bolted sport route. You wont onsight this one. Its called "UI benefits" rated 5.12+. Many new climbs are going up around the lake.
April 24, 2000
- John & Mike put up a new route about 10 meters to the climbers left of "centipede". It was climbed on sunday, probably rated 5.11? Bring the red #1 Camelot, or other 1-2 inch cam. Crux's at top and bottom
- Also a route to the climbers right of centipede is being cleaned by john. Its goes through the small roofs.
- Aaron Hamilton and M. Boyd climbed a new route on Upper Arbutus Alley. They named it "LAFFIN BOYS" (5.6 or 5.7?) 3 bolts 12m.
April 18, 2000
- "The Bad Touch", 1 pitch - 8 bolts - 2 bolt anchor, 5.10b - immediate climbers left of "Smile & Wave"
- Also boyd lead the controversial route that starts at the base of "bitter berry". Its high 5.11.
- Allot of cleaning in the space area, there will be many new routes for the summer.
March 24, 2000
- Nathan and M. Boyd are putting the finishing touches on a 5.8? climb in the space area.
- Also boyd placed 2 necessary and wished for bolts at the start of "Rebel Assault". This makes it much safer when leading out from "Arbutus Alley"
- top belay anchors were placed on "The Helm" for routes to the climbers right of "Devils Advocate". A couple nice multi-pitch routes could go in here.
Click here for Topo
New aid route
was finally completed on March 15, 2000. It was started Jan 1st, 2000. M & J. Waters and M. Boyd all contributed to the first accent. The route starts about 10 meters left of Sky Diving Wood Bugs. Click here for the topo. John's sketchy hook moves and Mike's speedy pin placements resulted in some good falls on the little 1/4" bolts (all bolts where placed while on lead and hanging from hooks. Boyd led far above un-tightened bolts because the wrench was forgotten. Click here for more.
DEVILS ADVOCATE
II A2+ 5.10d 3 pitches
This route is an example of when a traditional "ground up" ascent meets new school sport climbing. Two rappels down from the end fo Arbutus Alley and a tricky traverse get you to the start of this one. Or rappel the whole route from the top anchors.
Click here for a topo.
Pitch 1 Climb 30m up this 5.10d dihedral to a fixed anchor. gear to 2.5 inches.
fa: Nevin Harper ffa: MB
Pitch 2 Move right around the dihedral and connect up with the 1.5 inch face crack (A2+). Take most obvious route to the ledge. Use high horizontal crack for anchor.
fa: M. Boyd
Pitch 3 Smile & Wave. From here, climb up past bulge and continue up the exposed face for last 45m on 13 bolts to complete the climb (5.10d). The whole route takes about 5 hours.
ffa: M. Boyd
Other Projects
- About 10 m to the left of the now very mossy "Centipede" is a 5.11? route. M. Waters is cleaning and drilling necessary bolts. It should be ready once we get some dry weather.
- Two short routes are being worked out at Arbutus Alley. One goes basically straight up from the start of "Bitter Berry". The other starts at the base of "Loosifer" . Both are probably high 5.11-low 5.12?M.
- Boyd and J .Beaudry are also digging up some nice cracks above and to the climbers left of "Friday the 13th" about 30 meters.
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